In May of 2024, I spent several hours exploring Inishbiggle Island. It's that small island sandwiched between Achill Island and the mainland area at Ballycroy National Park in Co Mayo.
I can only describe it as the quintessential off-the-beaten-track hidden gem here in the west of Ireland.
Up to the late 1800s, Inishbiggle Island once housed over 180 inhabitants more or less evenly divided between Catholics and Protestants.
Now with a small population of 12 inhabitants, Inishbiggle Island ticks all the boxes for anyone seeking a day away from all the hustle and bustle most of us now experience on a daily basis. Arrive prepared as there are no shops and certainly no bar/restaurants. The small post office closed over 20 years ago.
There are two ferry departure points, Bullsmouth on Achill Island and Doran's Point off the N59 Road near Mullranny, Co Mayo.
For Doran's Point, the left-hand-side turn is just after Keane's Post Office and Foodstore. It's well signposted coming off the N59 Road.
Google 'ferries to Inishbiggle Island' and all the relevant information will be there. Inishbiggle-based Michael Leneghan operates from Doran's Point with boats departing each day at 9 am, except Tuesday which sees a 12:30 pm departure and Thursday I believe it's 10:30 am His phone number is on the website and he's usually out and about, he may not immediately answer. Ideally, you'd need to book a day or two or two beforehand.
It's a small boat going back and forth each way. The journey over takes around ten minutes. I guess it carries around six passengers.
Michael is both a gentleman and scholar and is an absolute wealth of knowledge and information on the island's history. He's really flexible on the return trip so agree on a time. In my opinion, around five hours should suffice.
If an Ireland of a past time still exists you'll certainly have stumbled upon it on Inishbiggle Island. The easy walking trails follow the only paved roads on the island and there are times when you'll feel like you have hopped onto a time machine and transported you back to a distant Ireland. The trail has two starting points on both sides of the island where the boats berth. It's well signposted throughout and you can pick up the trail beside either pier.
Throughout the trail, the fields that envelop the island are noticeably empty and silent now. Abandoned cottages are a last-standing testament to the island natives who emigrated to far-off lands, many never to return. Clusters of sheep and several donkeys converge in fields beside small lakes offering up the most nourishing grass feed.
Some beautiful beaches combined with a stunning series of unforgettable vistas make this island a true joy to explore on foot. The scenery looking over towards Slievemore Mountain and Croaghaun on Achill Island is heart-stopping.
Built in the late 1800s to accommodate the Protestant community on the island, the Holy Trinity Church is a standing pillar to that once thriving populace that is now no more. It's situated in a lovely pastoral setting shrouded in a colourful array of pink rhododendrons. I was nothing short of enraptured to spend some time here listening to the chorus of birds nesting around the enclosed church and its environs.
A view that combines both Achill Island and Croagh Patrick, I can truly say it is one of the best on the island. It's the last stop before continuing onwards to Gobnadoogha Quay and back over to the mainland at Doran's Point.
I'd also recommend taking the slight detour on the right-hand side heading towards the beach. On the left, you'll see the former residence, now a ruin, of the Protestant school teacher.
Taking the return boat back to Doran's Point, Michael talked about the long-term future and viability of the Island. He mentioned a paltry population of 12 men over the age of 50 and never married, it certainly doesn't give hope.
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